[Xixa Diary ... from Lulin]
[News from Xixabangma Advanced Base Camp]
[ Send-Off Party ]
[First Alpine Ascent of Mera Peak]
[ The launch of "Make It Real!" (MIR) programme in conjunction with the Singapore Xixabangma Expedition 2002]
[Expedition 2002 T-shirt]


Events


The team's training climb to Mera Peak in Nepal in October/November 2001 was a great success.

On October 30, Robert, Mok and Edwin summitted the 6,476m mountain in alpine style - a first by a Singapore team. Two days later, Robert and Mok summitted a second time, also in alpine style.

Setting off from Lukla

The team (minus Chee Mun who had to remain in Singapore because of an urgent personal matter) flew from Kathmandu to Lukla, from where they began a five-day trek to Mera Base Camp in Khare. The party, which included 27 porters, four cook-boys, a cook and two climbing sherpas, was led by the sirdar Gyan Magar.

Along the way, they enjoyed some of the most breath-taking scenery, through forests of juniper pine and rhododendrons, along rocky banks of gentle streams and gushing rivers, with the occasional waterfall. All around were magnificent peaks, some clad in greenery, others bare and rocky, and further beyond were the pristine, snow-capped mountains.

At dawn, early sun rays paint nearby peaks
in brilliant orange.
Pitching camp at Chutanga, Gyan's tent under
a huge Juniper Pine
The camp sites where the group stopped for the night were just as scenic. Some were surrounded by pine trees, others over-looked snow-covered peaks which the early-morning sun would paint in brilliant orange.




Sipping hot lemon drink at the top of
the second high pass


Most of the camp sites had teahouses run mostly by womenfolk. These stone-walled, thatch-roofed structures which dot the countryside are shut down in the colder months. They offer shelter and cooking facilities to porters but the team members, too, sort comfort in many along the way, warming themselves with hot milk tea and home-brewed rice wine.

Dancing the night away to celebrate Nepal's biggest festival


The trek to base Camp took seven days including extra nights in two camps to help the climbers to acclimatize. The terrain was unforgiving and one day, the party had to cross two high passes, each over 4,000m high.

The day the team arrived in Tangnag was the Nepalese festival of …… which was the biggest festival in the nation. The team decided to throw a party in the teahouse that night for all the trekking crew. Everyone drank and danced, and sang Nepalese folk songs.


After five days of trekking,
the group arrived at Khare, 4,180m above sea level, where Base Camp was established..

After a full day's rest, the three climbers prepared for their journey up to the High Camp.

At Khare Camp

 

 

 

 

Sorting out the gear before the ascent

They had deliberately loaded their rucksacks to 30kg to simulate as closely as possible, the conditions they would be experiencing at Xixabangma. They carried everything they would need during the climb, including all their ice climbing equipment - crampons, ice axes, ice screws, ropes, snow stakes, snow shovels, harnesses - as well as sleeping bags, tents, spare clothing, food for six days, stoves, and gas canisters.
on Mera Peak approaching High Camp


At High Camp. The tents used are much
smaller and lighter than those at Base Camp.

Weighed down by this enormous load,and nursing headaches and nausea because of the altitude, they set off before dawn. It took an exhausting 11 hours to reach High Camp at 5500m.

This was one of the main objectives of this training climb - to push themselves to the limit at high altitudes carrying a heavy rucksacks in order to assess their physical and mental fitness.

At High Camp, the men rested for a day. The next morning, at 3am, they again carried all their climbing gear and ropes and left for the summit bid.

The morning was bitterly cold with temperatures plummeting to -20C. Climbing in single file and keeping well together, they slogged up the snow-covered mountain almost non-stop for over 6 hours.

Heading for the summit at 3am
From left: Robert, Mok and Edwin at the submit

And on October 30, at about 8.30am local time, the three men stood at the summit of Mera Peak after an alpine ascent of the 6500m mountain.

Photographing Robert and Edwin with the
sponsor's banner in high wind was no easy task.


Descending to High Camp

The climbers returned to High Camp, packed up and went down to Mera La, a snow-covered col at 5000m where they set up another camp. The extra distance from the summit was to help them train harder by extending their next cllimb to the summit.

Edwin, who had to return to Singapore ahead of schedule due to work commitment, went down to Base Camp on the same day.

Robert and Mok meanwhile assessed their conditions and decided to push their physical and mental endurance further - to go again the same night for the summit in a single push in alpine style. This time, it was from Mera La, which meant gaining 1500m in vertical height during the climb.


Submitting a second time


Back in Lukla, the team threw a big party for the entire staff who ate and danced into the night. The next day, the team headed back to Kathymandu en route home to Singapore.



They left at 2am in the morning and summitted at 11am in the morning for the second time. It was a cold and exhausting two days which left Mok with a frost nip on his right thumb.


Worried that it could lead to further damage, the two men decided to descend to Base Camp a day earlier than planned. Not wanting to waste any time, the whole party packed up and left Khare the next morning.

Porter piling his plate at the dinnerat the Lukla
farewell party.

 

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Last Updated 08 March 2003