Dr Mok Ying Jang
Deputy Leader and Expedition Doctor

Q: At what age did you start climbing? A: I started with rock climbing when I was 21, in 1988. I was among the first few who started climbing in Singapore and we were totally self-taught. There were no courses to attend; we just read books and went to climb. We did not even have harnesses, so we used army tapes instead. We also used nylon ropes that were not climbing ropes, so it was quite lucky none of us fell to our death! A few of my friends and I then went for a technical mountaineering course in 1990, in New Zealand. Climbing in the Himalayas started later in 1994.

Q: What has kept you at climbing for so long?

A: It is very interesting to be doing something unconventional. It is exciting because it tests not only my physical abilities but also my mental capacity, having to think four, five steps ahead and learn how to solve problems on the spot.

Q: What about mountaineering?

A: It is tough - it is an expensive sport and it is not for everyone. We in Singapore have to travel in order to climb. Traveling and equipment are not cheap. Also, the general perception is that it is a dangerous sport. It is true; there are elements that we cannot control, like avalanches and rock falls, but with proper training and procedures, it is a good sport to engage in.

What kind of sacrifices did you have to make over the years in order to continue mountaineering?
I would not call them sacrifices, but rather, things I do not mind giving up, because mountaineering is a passion. As for career, there was a little professional setback, but it was not a big thing. I was supposed to go for a postgraduate course but did not have time to take the exam. I find working in hospitals and as a general practitioner equally fulfilling, although as a general practitioner, I get more time off to do what I want.

Q: Where do you find time to do all these on top of your work?

A: Well, everyone has 24 hours. It is about finding time in between work and family to go and do it. Training is done during my off hours between sessions at my clinic. After training I meet my girlfriend or spend time with my family. It is all a balancing act and that makes life more interesting and challenging.

Q: You will be doing the climb alpine style, so where does acclimatization come in?

A: We will be climbing to several established camps located at 6000m, 6800m and 7400m. We will move up and down the mountains several times and sleep at the high camps, to get the body used to the low oxygen level. We will be doing this for several weeks, so it is a gradual process, to allow the body to acclimatize.

Q: If that is the case, what is the difference between an alpine ascent and the conventional pre-set camps type of ascent?

A: The general consensus of what defines an alpine climb is that fixed rope would not be used unless the rope is fixed by us as we climb. Secondly, there are no preset camps, no depot we can rely on, so everything we need is in our pack. Thirdly, because there is a limit to how much we can carry, most climbers doing alpine style do not climb with oxygen. These are the main differences.

Q: What would you do if one of your climbers does not acclimatize properly?

A: It really depends how badly we acclimatize. Acute mountain sickness (AMS) can affect the lungs and the brain causing symptoms like headaches and difficulties in breathing. In more serious cases, there can be severe coughs and throwing up of pinkish phlegm, severe headaches from brain swelling and one can actually die from it. A medication called Diamox helps to get rid of excess water in the lungs and the brain. We also have the gamows bag - a portable, airtight, pressurized chamber with a 'bicycle pump'. The pumped up chamber simulates a lower altitude. The affected person will remain in the chamber for 1-2 hrs. In emergency situations, oxygen and various injectable medicines can be given. Of course the general advice to climbers is that if you do not acclimatize well, then climb no higher. If possible, descent.

Q: What other medical situations would you be prepared for?

A: There are certain sections on Xixabangma that are avalanche prone. If we cross them and something happens it will not be easy. Injury can also occur if a person is hit by a rock and breaks a leg. We might then have to set up a rescue team to send the person down, which is never easy, as it can take two to three times longer than usual to bring the person down safely. Of course we hope such things will not happen but we are planning for the worst-case scenario.

Q: What happens if you fall sick?

A: I will tell them how to give me injections! (Laughs) By and large it should be okay. I will know how to give myself medicine. If I am unconscious, I am sure they will be able to do something. There will be a step-by-step guide for them. For example, in Antarctica, I gave the whole team a very comprehensive list of medication and what to look out for.

Q: How do you see adventure sport in Singapore and what developments do you expect in the near future?

A: How do you see adventure sport in Singapore and what developments do you expect in the near future.
Rock climbing is well organized now, with local circuits and grading and point systems to grade climbers. Good climbers get selected to go for international competitions, which I think is a great way of doing things. Perhaps an even better way would be to expose these sport climbers to a natural climbing environment. That is important.

For mountaineering over the past two years, especially with Everest climbing, everyone has been very concerned with height gain. I think there is no necessity for this concern with height. Small mountains can be as exciting as a big mountain which may be less difficult. So mountaineering should be enjoyed by everyone at her or his own level. I see newer developments though. In pushing the frontiers, the approach in future would be bolder, in terms of going for more challenging climbs rather than going just for 8000m peaks. However, to complete climbing all the fourteen 8000 m peaks is quite a feat and I do not even foresee in the next 10 yrs that this could be done, unless there is a very outstanding team. One expedition a year would kill an amateur climber's working career.

I think the third very important aspect of adventure sports is events like Eco Challenge. They are competitive events that involve multiple disciplines. All these are very exciting developments in adventure sports and creating an environment and culture for these outdoor activities may be the next step for the youngsters.

Q: So you would suggest more related events and expeditions?

A: Yes, at secondary and junior college level. Those are the formative years, when they can be taught what safety is and how to look after themselves.

Q: What makes a good mountaineer?

A: I think one very important aspect is that the mountaineer must have a very clear and quick-thinking mind, so that if a situation arises, he is able to deal with it quickly. Secondly, the physical aspect must be there. Thirdly, well controlled emotions, because if the person is easily frightened, he would lose control and would not be able to get out of a dangerous situation. I think these three constitute the essence of a mountain climber.

Q: Do you have any idols?

A: I do not want to have one. The good ones are all dead! (Laughs)