Introduction Since the late 80s, mountaineering in Singapore has steadily
gained popularity. However, most expeditions were in the conventional style of climbing with oxygen and pre-built camps. In 2002, a small group of Singapore mountaineers decided that it was time to push the limits of high-altitude mountaineering — to climb into the death zone (8000m) without using
supplementary oxygen and without depending on pre-built camps,
a style known as an alpine ascent. Alpine-style climbing above 8000m is highly
regarded and recognized by the international mountaineering
community. The successful Singapore Xixabangma Expedition in March — May 2002, which reached the central summit at 8,012m, was the first alpine ascent of an 8,000m peak by a South East Asian team.
What The Expedition Achieved
Prime Minister, Mr Goh Chok Tong, in a letter to the Singapore
Antarctica Expedition said that he wants "Singaporeans
to be rugged and adventurous and 'conquer the wilds'".
The aims of the Expedition in climbing
Xixabangma were three fold: to push the limits of mountaineering
in Singapore; to increase awareness and broaden the scope
of high altitude mountaineering; and to promote a healthy
and balanced lifestyle.
Through public talks and slide shows, and a television documentary, we promoted the the spirit of adventure and inspired the nation
to take greater challenges in sports as well as other aspects
of social and economic endeavours. Team leader Robert Goh has written a book to share the experience and offer detailed information to help other mountaineers in such pursuits.
Patron
And Endorsement
The Patron of the Expedition was Mr. Lim Swee Say, then Minister
for the Environment and 2nd Minister for Information and Technology.
The expedition was endorsed by the Singapore Mountaineering
Federation and the National Youth Council.
Xixabangma Facts Xixabangma
is the 14th highest mountain in the world and
the highest peak located entirely in Tibet, China. It was
also the last of the 14 mountains above 8000m to be climbed.
The first recorded ascent of Xixabangma
was in 1964 by a mammoth Chinese Expedition consisting of
195 climbers. Since then, Xixabangma has been climbed by internationally
acclaimed climbers from around the world. As the height of
the mountain is just above the Death Zone (above 8000m), it
has become an excellent stepping stone to "oxygen-less"
ascents of over 8000m. But climbing Xixabangma is no trivial
task as 21 out of 167 summitters had perished (a fatality
rate of 1 in 8).
The
Death Zone
Death Zone in mountaineering terminology refers to altitudes
above 8000m. It is so called because life is not sustainable
at that altitude where the air is 42% less dense than
at sea level. The thin air affects the climber both
physically and mentally and the body has to work doubly
hard in such a hostile environment.
Up to 2002, the highest altitude that Singaporean
mountaineers had climbed without supplementary
oxygen was around 7400m. In our expedition, we succeeded in
breaking through the Death Zone barrier by climbing Xixabangma
without supplementary oxygen and without relying on
pre-built camps : an Alpine Ascent.
Expedition
Members
The risks involved in this Expedition were high and require
climbers with previous high-altitude mountaineering
experience. The members
of the Expedition were carefully selected
based on their competency as mountaineers, all having climbed
well together in past expeditions up to 7400m without using
supplementary oxygen. The members were :
Dr
Robert Goh Ee Kiat Then Senior member of technical
staff, DSO National Laboratories
Mrs
Lulin Reutens Journalist for 20
years before going free-lance as an editorial consultant
Training
The team conducted local and overseas training
climbs in 2001. Local training include stairs climbing,
gym and other work out. Overseas training focused on acclimatization
and technical snow and ice skills.
Expedition
Budget
The total cost of the expedition, including equipmentand training totaled $680,000.
