[Make It Real! Students' Program] [The Programme in Detail] [Student Quotes]
[Training] [President's Challenge 2001] [Technical Mountaineering Course]

Make it Real!

Technical Mountaineering Course

We met the guides on our fourth day morning in New Zealand, at their headquarters in small town Wanaka, a nice scenic town with a mere population of 19,000 overlooking Lake Wanaka, the fourth largest lake in south island. The Mount Aspiring ranges are also in full frontal view from the lake. We had earlier flown into Christchurch from Singapore, and had stayed in Christchurch for 2 days before taking a 6 hour plus bus ride to this town.

We had 3 guides with us, namely Paul Aubrey, Bryan Moore and Steve Moffatt. They warmed us up immediately upon meeting us, excited at the prospect of coaching people from a country which never had a snow fall, less for chilling weather. The ten of us were split into 3 teams, into groups of 3, 3 and 4 with each of the guides.

Technical Mountaineering Course day 1 has begun, as most of us were quite excited at the thought of doing new stuff with our new found snow equipment. The guides were all pretty organised, requesting us to spread out all the equipment that we intended to bring. We spent the whole of the morning cutting down on weight, taking away excess clothes, removing extra spare batteries, and Steve actually par our pack load to quite manageable. After repacking back all our stuff and a light lunch, we hopped on their vans, and our journey to the mountains began.

A 3-hour ride took us to the base of Franz Josef glacier, and we settled in that tiny town for the night. We flew up the very next morning, in helicopters that took us straight up to 2500m in a mere 15 minutes a while after 9. We touched down on a flat plateau of snow, took out our bags from the helicopters and waited for the rest of the team to come. Looking around us, there was nothing but ranges of snow and ice stretching for miles and miles. From where we were, we could actually see the sea looking like a fake blue blanket just below the horizon to our west. It was a tad overwhelming for us coming from a place where you see people just about everywhere.

From there, we were going to train, live, sleep, laugh, sweat together in a snow, rock and ice environment for the next 6 days. The normal temperature in the day was a cooling 3 degrees, while it dips past sub zeros during night-time. We lived in a hut, a small building primary made of wood and metal structures. As another group was having a course there as well, we had to split up on some nights for some to live in the tents below to free up the space. We had learnt a lot during this while.
Techniques that we have learnt include how to walk in snow, using our ropes in various methods mostly for safety reasons; self-arresting on a slope, building a snow anchor, ice anchor, etc. Interesting bits include using an avalanche transceiver to look for another, building a snow cave which measured one man's height by 8 men standing area, the list was endless.

A particular episode that I enjoyed was the self arresting class. Bryan and Steve had combined their groups together, including me, the girls along with Shaffique and Keith. We went up to a gradual slope at first, as we first practiced sliding down with our axe in our hands. The correct final position to self-arrest is face down in a lying position, one hand holding onto the head of the axe plunged into the snow, the other hand gripping the shaft lower down the axe slightly lifted so as to aid the axe to plunge in deeper. As we gained more practice, we could tumble and jump off from whatever positions we could think of and try to get into the final position. Us guys preferred to tumble backward and rolled a few times before we tried to self arrest. While a self arrest was considered a serious affair in real time situations where a mistake could be fatal, we had quite a lot of fun pushing each other down the slopes. The only bad part of the training was that the more we rolled down, the harder it was to walk back uphill.


During the course, we were also trapped in the hut when a snowstorm hit us for 2 days. The weather forecast had earlier predicted storms the next day, and true enough, for the next 2 days, except for walking 5 metres out to our toilet, we were confined within the boundaries of the hut. Temperatures outside dipped to below minus 10 degrees, with winds reaching up to 100km/hr. One of our girls, in an effort to enjoy a walk to the loo, was blown by a sudden gust and she fell, breaking one of the planks on the pathway to the loo. It was fortunate that she merely escaped with a bruised ego, and that was our topic for the rest of the day.


On our fifth day on the snow, we made a long walk to the other hut on a 3 hour journey. With our packs fully loaded with equipment and food for 3 days, we lumbered along with rope attached to one another in our group for safety. The weather was clear that day, and it's a strange feeling to have the sun high up burning your face and body while your feet felt freezing cold by its constant contact with the snow. I thought we looked pretty cool up the mountains: all of us were draped in colourful jackets and pants, harnesses attached round our waists, sunglasses sitting conspicuously upon our nose bridges, a big pack on our shoulders, surrounded by knicks and knacks of ice axes and ice screws. We were a constant good photo opportunity.

Our experience on the snow ended on the sixth day, when we flew down to sea level with the same mode of transport that we came in. We rested in Franz Josef that night, finally bathing for the first time in 6 days.

The final 2 days of the course was spent on ice climbing and natural rock climbing, as the guides gave us introductory courses to ice climbing and familiarity with the natural rock scene there. We had a hard time getting used to it, as it was very different compared to walking on a snow or even rock climbing. We had to rely very much on our crampons, metal spikes that we attach to our boots for digging into the hard ice and our ice axes which we used as picks to lift ourselves up the ice face. In the end, we were dead tired but enjoyed the experience nevertheless.

We parted with our guides on tenth day afternoon, after a session of post evaluation and tea. Most of us had truly enjoyed the experience, rating it as one of our most exciting experience so far. It's a good start into the big world of mountaineering, and I'm sure it wouldn't be the last for most of us.

Chow E-Fung
Team member
Xixabangma "make it real!" 01/02

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Last Updated 08 March 2003